Find the pinprick town of Laura (YLRA), 43nm west of Cooktown in far north Queensland, tie your aircraft down and put yourself in the hands of Johnny Murison for 24 hours. You’re not going to forget it.
Kuku-Yalanji born Johnny is the heart of Jarramali Rock Art tours.
From the moment he bounces out of his all-terrain vehicle to greet you in town, he’s on a mission to give you one hell of an adventure and share his deep passion for this stunning slice of Cape York he calls home.
With helmets clamped on, you’ll self-drive behind Johnny over a bone rattling track through creek beds and insanely rough terrain to end up at his self-built remote camp.
On our recent visit, we were allocated tents or a swag under the stars and let Johnny feed us, teach us, entertain us and generally open our eyes to the ancient indigenous heritage of this area.
We learn about bush foods and medicines and munch on a green ant.
We walk to breathtaking galleries of Quinkan rock art tucked under overhanging ledges of million-year-old sandstone.
When the sun goes down, we light the fire and the playlist is all didgeridoo. He’s a man of surprises.
Time for farewells and Johnny's looking interested in swapping the helmet for a headset ...
You'll find the airstrip at Laura well maintained with plenty of parking.
Stay with Jenny and Harold at the Laura Motel; they pretty much run the place when it comes to a bed for the night, shop supplies and even some afternoon entertainment watching Harold feeding a hundred galahs every day on the main street. He'll also look after your refuelling if you’re desperate; just ring and organise it well before you get there. Stroll over to the pub for meals and a beer with whoever is the demographic travelling through this tiny Cape York town today.
Leaving Laura, you can head west to the Gulf of Carpentaria coastline where it's prime-time croc and crab country in the super relaxed town of Karumba. Otherwise, it's a short but delightful flight east over the range to Cooktown - stay for a couple of nights and soak in the far north Queensland mood - it's just good for the soul!