Find the pinprick town of Laura (YLRA), 43nm west of Cooktown in far north Queensland, tie your aircraft down and put yourself in the hands of Johnny Murison for 24 hours. You’re not going to forget it.
From the moment he bounces out of his all-terrain vehicle to greet you in town, he’s on a mission to give you one hell of an adventure and share his deep passion for this stunning slice of Cape York he calls home.
With helmets clamped on, you’ll self-drive behind Johnny over a bone rattling track through creek beds and insanely rough terrain to end up at his self-built remote camp.
On our visit, we were allocated tents or a swag under the stars and let Johnny feed us, teach us, entertain us and generally open our eyes to the ancient indigenous heritage of this area.
As the sun goes down, the light on the chasm turns into a golden curtain. We light the fire and the playlist is all didgeridoo. He’s a man of surprises.
Back in town, stay with Jenny and Harold at the Laura Motel; they pretty much run the place when it comes to a bed for the night, shop supplies and even some afternoon entertainment watching Harold feeding a hundred galahs every day on the main street. He’ll also look after your refuelling if you’re desperate; just ring and organise it well before you get there. Stroll over to the pub for meals and a beer with whoever’s travelling through this tiny Cape York town today.
If you’re looking for a real off-the-grid adventure, one that encourages you to connect with Country through one of the most engaging, knowledgable, and genuine characters around, then come up and meet Johnny and give Jarramali a go.
Leaving Laura, you can head west to the Gulf of Carpentaria coastline where it’s prime-time croc and crab country in the super relaxed town of Karumba. Otherwise, it’s a short but delightful flight east over the range to Cooktown – stay for a couple of nights and soak in the far north Queensland mood – it’s just good for the soul!