Toogunna Plains

Durack country

As one of my favourite chunks of Australia, I don’t need a big excuse to visit the channel country of south-west Queensland. But if there’s a new outback farmstay that’s come onto the radar, then it’s my civil duty to go check it out. Four of us hopped into two aircraft and headed north from Bathurst for a quick 4 night getaway ... anything to get out of a Sydney winter.

You’ll find Toogunna on a huge flat plain, halfway between the towns of Quilpie and Eromanga. This whole area is prime time dinosaur country, which is why we were first drawn to Eromanga a few years ago.

The Natural History Museum here is world standard; do NOT miss it.  Their signature daily tours showcase the origins and discovery of these massive beasts in incredible detail.

But do yourself a favour and put your head down for a couple of nights at the nearby Farmstay, as we did.

At the time of our visit in July 2024, Toogunna's own airstrip wasn't ready for visitors, however we all decided that's an easy task and won't take long to get sorted. In the meantime, you can fly in to Eromanga, leave your aircraft securely tied down and one of the Toogunna team will happily drive in and pick you up. If you’re driving, then it’s a quick hop along a good road from either Quilpie or Eromanga to the Toogunna Plains gate.

You're in for a special treat at sunset ... the Toogunna way.

That's the wonderful Margaret above, who knocks into shape a good chunk of the organising needed to keep this place ticking. Her sister, Fiona, works some kind of magic in the kitchen and serves us beautiful gourmet dinners both nights we are here.

We are invited up to their homestead for an 'outback formal' dinner under the stars on the first night - our job to savour the food, wine and non-stop conversation with our hosts.  Of course, we all have a million questions about what life is like for these enterprising fifth-generation sheep and cattle farmers. They all seem to work so hard, I am exhausted just listening to them.

We'd had a big day's flying to get here, so when we couldn't fit one more morsel in .... time for bed.

All the comforts of home in Brolga Hut 4.

You'll be treated to a dose of unexpected luxury as you settle into the cosy and comfy  huts in either the Brolga or Eagle wings of this unassuming property. Ensuites at your service, beautiful linen, artwork and air-con to keep everyone happy.

Step outside onto your shared verandah and you're a stone's throw from the communal campfire - essential for sunset hydration whilst you're meeting your fellow guests. The four of us had the place to ourselves, but with 18 rooms, Toogunna could have easily accommodated a squadron of our flying mates as well. They are well versed in looking after visiting coach tours here, so they've got big groups covered.

The knockabout Bush Kitchen is where the magic happens at breakfast and our second night's dinner, all about 20 paces from your bed.

 

Lunch during the farm tour is waiting for us at the shearing shed.

Boss of the stock and station, the genial Adam is another of Toogunna's hosts and leads us on a fascinating and educational tour around the property the next day.

Adam personally constructed miles of the iconic dog fence, essential for sheep farming.

He is joined by a local historian who shares minutely researched history of the area, including the Durack story, the legendary pastoral family who settled here on their way to the Kimberley for over ten years, and the significance of the property as a Cobb & Co staging post.

It's well known that it is illegal in the outback not to supervise the sunset with friends, and so as the day draws to a close, we're piled into the mini-bus to head ... somewhere.

This is where Toogunna Plains once again ramps up the style stakes and tips us out at their very own stunning big red sand dune, for a dress circle view of the setting sun.

We are offered wine and cheese and the best of company under a vast outback sky. Life is good.